Both live on your account page (My Account in the header).
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Sign-in email: choose Change email, enter the new address, and confirm it with the one-time code we send there. Your account switches over once the new address is verified.
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Return address: update it under My Return Address — name, street, city, state, and ZIP (US only). We verify it can receive mail when you save it. It's saved to your account, so future letters use it automatically. Remember it must be your own genuine, current address.
Your account page is also where you can change your newsletter preference at any time.